You’re petting your dog and suddenly feel a hard clump behind his ear. Or the coat looks neat from above, but under his armpits, the hair turns out to be matted together. Mats can start small and imperceptibly turn into a compact, felted layer. Especially with long, woolly, curly, or silky coats, this can happen faster than you expect.
A small, loose mat can often be carefully handled at home. For severe matting, sensitive skin, or a dog indicating pain, professional help is the safest choice. In this guide, you’ll learn how mats form, which areas deserve extra attention, how to gently remove small mats from the coat without pulling, and how to help prevent new mats.
What is a mat in a dog’s coat?
A mat forms when loose and still attached hairs intertwine. Friction, moisture, dirt, and trapped undercoat can cause such a clump to become increasingly compact. You’ll first feel a small knot, and later possibly a solid felted piece lying close to the skin.
Mats are not just a cosmetic problem. A compact clump can pull on the skin when your dog walks, lies down, or is touched. Moreover, it's difficult to see the condition of the skin under a dense coat. Therefore, early checking is much better than waiting until a full grooming session is necessary.
Not every irregularity is immediately a mat. A cowlick, a clump of undercoat, or dried dirt can feel similar. Gently separate the hairs with your fingers and look in good light. If you can't move the hairs apart or can't get a suitable comb through the ends, you're likely dealing with a mat.
Why does my dog get mats?
Usually, there isn't one single cause. It's a combination of coat type, movement, and daily conditions. Common factors include:
- Loose hairs: Shed hairs get caught in a longer or thick coat and intertwine with the attached hairs.
- Friction: A collar, harness, jacket, or frequently lying on the same side can press hairs together.
- Moisture: Rain, swimming, and a coat that isn't thoroughly dried can make knots compact faster.
- Dirt: Sand, mud, twigs, and seeds easily get stuck in longer hair.
- Incomplete brushing: The topcoat looks smooth, while the underlying layers are still matted together.
- Coat change: During shedding or the transition from puppy to adult coat, extra maintenance may be needed.
- Less self-grooming or movement: Older or less mobile dogs have difficulty reaching some areas and often lie in the same position.
Even a well-groomed dog can get a mat. Don't see it as a failure, but as a signal to review the routine or the materials used.
Which dogs get mats more easily?
Long, woolly, curly, and silky coats generally require more attention than a short, smooth coat. Think of many doodle-like breeds, Havanese, Shih Tzus, Maltese, Poodles, Spaniels, and dogs with a rich undercoat. Combinations of different hair structures can also be prone to matting.
However, breed isn't everything. The length you keep the coat, the amount of undercoat, the season, outdoor activities, and the use of harnesses or clothing all count. Two dogs of the same breed may therefore need a different grooming routine.
A short-haired dog rarely experiences the same kind of matting, but even then, loose hairs, skin folds, or dirt may require attention. Therefore, don't use a general brushing rule without looking at the individual coat.
Pay special attention to these areas during inspection
Mats often form where hairs move against each other or against material. Take your time to check the following zones:
- behind and under the ears;
- in the armpits;
- on the chest and in the collar area;
- under a collar or harness;
- in the groin area and inside the hind legs;
- in the "trousers" at the rear;
- at the base of the tail and in a long tail;
- between and above the toes;
- around the beard and under the chin;
- in areas where a dog coat rubs.
Don't just feel the top layer. Lift the coat layer by layer and gently move your fingertips towards the skin. This way, you'll discover nascent knots before they form a large, hard clump.
When can you remove a mat yourself?
A small mat is usually suitable for home grooming if it’s loose in the outer coat, movable with your fingers, and your dog calmly allows touch in that area. You should still be able to feel space between the mat and the skin. Stop if you have any doubts.
Do not try to comb through it yourself if the coat is matted flat against the skin, multiple body parts are matted, or you cannot assess the skin. Redness, sores, moisture, odor, swelling, or clear pain are also reasons not to tamper further. In such cases, contact a professional dog groomer, and for skin or health issues, your veterinarian.
If a dog growls, ducks away, stiffens, or tries to snap, safety comes first. Do not punish these signals. Your dog is indicating that the situation is too difficult or sensitive. Leave the area alone and seek guidance.
What do you need?
Prepare everything before you start. For a small, loose mat, the following are often sufficient:
- a quiet, well-lit place;
- a stable non-slip mat;
- small rewards;
- your fingers;
- a comb with suitable, rounded teeth;
- a brush appropriate for the coat type;
- possibly a detangling spray for dogs, used according to the label.
A slicker brush has thin, bent metal pins. The LICG states that this type of brush is suitable for removing dead hairs and carefully working apart mats, especially for longer and thicker coats. However, the right choice depends on the coat. If in doubt, ask a certified groomer to demonstrate the material and technique once.
For long-haired dogs for whom a slicker is suitable, you can check out the active Slicker Brush from the By Cee Cee grooming line. Always use a brush with light pressure and first check on your own forearm how sharp or firm the pins feel.
Safely removing small mats: step-by-step plan
Step 1: choose a quiet moment
Start when your dog is relaxed and you're not in a hurry. Place him on a surface with grip. A grooming session doesn't have to be completed all at once; several short sessions are often more pleasant than going on for a long time.
Step 2: examine and feel the mat
Separate the surrounding hair and determine where the mat begins. Check how much space there is to the skin. Is the mat hard, large, or barely movable? Then stop and have it professionally assessed.
Step 3: first loosen the knot with your fingers
Gently hold the fur between the mat and the skin. This limits pulling on the skin. Don't pull the mat apart as one whole, but divide it into smaller and smaller clumps with your fingertips.
Step 4: start at the hair ends
Do not place the brush or comb directly at the skin and do not pull through the entire knot in one motion. Work with short, light movements from the ends. As soon as those are free, move up a small bit at a time. The principle is similar to gently combing out long hair: first the ends, then towards the base.
Step 5: brush in small sections
Lift a thin layer of coat and treat only a small area. This way, you reach the underlying hairs without harshly scraping the skin. Regularly check with a comb if the section is truly free; a smooth top layer doesn't automatically mean the undercoat is mat-free.
Step 6: constantly observe your dog
Stop for a moment if your dog turns his head away, licks his lips excessively, pants without being hot, tries to leave, or tenses his muscles. Take a break and make the next session shorter. Grooming should not become a struggle.
Step 7: end positively
Reward calm behavior and finish with something pleasant. That could be a small treat, a sniffing session, or a quiet walk. This way, the brush doesn't just become an announcement of pulling and holding.
Why you shouldn't just cut out a mat
Scissors may seem like a quick solution, but they pose a serious risk. With a tight mat, the skin can be pulled up with it and disappear between the hairs. You then can't clearly see where the skin ends and the mat begins. An unexpected movement from your dog is enough to injure him.
Therefore, do not cut close to the skin and do not insert scissors under a mat. For stubborn or skin-level mats, a groomer can assess whether brushing is still advisable or if local shaving is more comfortable and safer. A shorter coat will grow back; prolonged pulling and pain are not a good price for maintaining length.
Should you wet a mat first?
Just wetting it is usually not a good start. Water can make loose hairs and dirt clump together more compactly, especially if the coat is then rubbed dry or doesn't dry sufficiently. Therefore, brush before washing according to the coat's needs and check for knots.
If you use a detangling product, choose only a product intended for dogs and follow the instructions for use. Human shampoo, conditioner, or homemade mixtures are not automatically suitable for dog skin. When in doubt, ask a groomer or veterinarian for advice.
How to prevent new mats
1. Make feeling a daily habit
A quick check with your hands takes little time. Feel behind the ears, in the armpits, along the harness, and near the rear during petting. Beginning knots are much easier to fix than felted mats.
2. Brush according to coat type, not a fixed internet schedule
The LICG generally suggests that long, woolly, or silky coats may need daily combing, and medium-length or wiry coats a few times a week. For short coats, the focus is often more on the shedding period. These are starting points, not universal calendars. Let a groomer determine the appropriate frequency and technique for your dog.
3. Work down to the correct layer
Only brushing over the top hairs can give a nice result while the layer underneath remains matted. Work calmly in thin sections. After brushing, check with a suitable comb, without using force.
4. Keep brushing sessions short and predictable
A few pleasant minutes a day are often more effective than one long, unpleasant session a week. Use a fixed spot, let your dog examine the tools, and gradually build up touch. Puppies and adult dogs unfamiliar with brushing need the same gentle acclimatization.
5. Check after rain, swimming, and forest walks
Gently remove twigs and loose dirt. Blot a wet coat dry instead of rubbing hard and follow professional drying advice for a long or thick coat. Pay extra attention to paws, belly, armpits, and ears.
6. Critically evaluate harnesses and clothing
Check the fit and feel under straps and edges. A harness should not rub or constantly compress the coat. Brush the contact zones after removing the harness or a dog coat.
7. Maintain your tools
Remove hair from the brush, clean the tools according to instructions, and check for bent or sharp teeth. A damaged brush should be replaced. Store grooming tools dry.
8. Plan grooming appointments in advance
For coats that continue to grow or require specialized maintenance, a regular appointment prevents you from seeking help only when problems arise. Discuss home care with the groomer: what tools, what areas, and what interval are suitable?
Learning stress-free coat care
Don't start with the most difficult part right away. First, practice gentle touching on easy spots, like the shoulder and chest. Show the brush, reward interest, and make one soft stroke. Stop while your dog is still relaxed.
Then gradually increase the duration and body areas. Take into account the sensitivity of each spot; paws, tail, belly, and ears often require more acclimatization. A lick mat can help some dogs relax, but it should not be used to ignore clear signs of stress.
For small dogs on a table, always ensure a non-slip surface and stay with them. Lift a dog safely or work on the floor. Never restrain them without knowing how to do so safely.
When should you go to a dog groomer?
Consult a professional groomer when:
- the mat is large, hard, or close to the skin;
- the coat is matted in multiple places;
- you cannot see or feel where the skin is;
- your dog cannot tolerate touch or shows signs of pain;
- you don't know what tools suit the coat;
- previous attempts have made the mat more compact;
- a specialized trimming, stripping, or shaving schedule is needed.
Ask about their training and experience with your dog's coat type. A good groomer will also explain what you can do at home and what expectations are realistic. Sometimes, shortening the coat is the kindest solution. That's not a failure, but a choice for comfort.
When should a vet be consulted?
Contact your veterinarian if the skin under or around the mat is red, moist, swollen, or damaged, smells unpleasant, or if your dog licks, scratches, or shows signs of pain unusually often. Also, have any sudden changes in coat or skin assessed. A brush does not treat an underlying skin condition.
Do not remove anything from a wound yourself and do not use medicated shampoo or skin products without appropriate advice. The veterinarian can assess what is medically necessary; a groomer will then focus on safe coat care.
Common matting mistakes
Pulling too hard
Brushing harder doesn't automatically loosen the mat faster and can stress the skin. Break the work into smaller clumps and stop if gentle movements aren't enough.
Only brushing the top layer
The coat may appear smooth, but matting can still exist close to the skin. Work layer by layer and gently check with an appropriate comb.
Going on for too long
A grooming session doesn't have to be finished just because you started it. Take a break before your dog becomes restless or sensitive.
Using the wrong tools
A brush for a thick, long coat is not automatically suitable for a short, smooth, or wiry-haired dog. Get advice on coat type and technique.
Washing before checking for mats
Water and friction can make existing knots more difficult. Check before bathing and follow an appropriate washing and drying routine.
Self-shaving or cutting without experience
The skin can lie unexpectedly close to or within the mat. Have skin-level and matted areas professionally treated.
A simple weekly check
Use this short schedule as a reminder and adjust the frequency to the coat type:
- Feel with your fingers behind the ears and under the chin.
- Check armpits, chest, and areas under the collar or harness.
- Run both hands along the flanks, belly, and groin.
- Examine the trousers, tail, and base of the tail.
- Check paws, between the toes, and for any remaining dirt.
- Gently brush in small sections with appropriate tools.
- Note areas that repeatedly mat and discuss them with the groomer.
For a mat-prone coat, perform this check more frequently. After a wet or intense walk, an extra check may be wise.
Frequently asked questions about mats in dogs
Do mats hurt a dog?
A tight mat can pull on the skin and therefore be sensitive or painful. The denser and larger the matting, the more important it is not to pull hard yourself.
Can I brush every dog with a slicker brush?
No. A slicker is primarily suitable for certain longer and thicker coats. For short, smooth, wiry, or specialized coats, other tools may be needed. Ask a groomer which type and size are appropriate.
How often should I brush my dog to prevent mats?
That depends on coat type, length, season, and activities. Long or woolly coats often require daily attention; medium-length coats usually need several checks per week. Create a personalized schedule with your groomer.
Can I remove a mat with my fingers?
A small, loose knot can sometimes be gently divided into smaller clumps. Hold the hairs close to the skin to limit pulling. If it doesn't work with light movements, stop.
Can I cut out the mat?
Not close to the skin. The skin can be pulled up into the mat and then becomes difficult to see. Have tight or skin-level mats removed by a professional.
Why does the coat always mat behind the ears?
The hairs there are often fine and constantly moving. Friction from scratching, lying down, collars, and moisture can promote knots. Therefore, check that area extra often.
Should I wash my dog before brushing him?
Not if tangles are already present. Check and treat the coat before washing according to professional advice. Only use products intended for dogs.
Does a shaved coat always grow back the same way?
That depends on the coat type and the dog. Consult a groomer or vet for advice before shaving a coat. In cases of severe matting, comfort may outweigh retaining length.
Conclusion: early feeling prevents hard pulling
Tangles are best prevented with regular, coat-type-specific checks. Feel friction spots, work in small layers during brushing, and keep sessions short and pleasant. A small loose tangle can sometimes be gently treated with your fingers and appropriate tools. If the coat is tight against the skin, the area is sensitive, or you are unsure about the approach? Have a groomer or vet take a look.
The goal is not the longest possible coat at any cost, but a comfortable dog with well-maintained skin and coat. With the right routine, you will discover problems earlier, and grooming will become a calm, familiar part of your week.